Food: Large-scale distribution faces criticism over its lack of involvement in the food transition

"Lagging behind" in the food transition, according to a major study published in mid-May by the Climate Action Network (RAC), and accused by several associations, including Foodwatch on Thursday, of "selling out" consumers' health by focusing their promotions on products that are too fatty, too sweet, or too salty, the retail giants are seeing their model criticized. This model, "based on low prices and high volumes, is not capable of integrating the challenges of the food transition," explains Charlie Brocard, a food researcher at the Institute for Sustainable Development and International Relations.

The industry's heavyweights, however, insist they are aware of the issues and are making efforts. Carrefour, for example, claims to have "made the food transition for all its raison d'être." Leclerc, often one of the most criticized in various surveys and reports—with a score of 4.5 out of 20 awarded by the RAC in its report on the ecological transition of large-scale retailing—announced in mid-April that it was launching its own carbon indicator for its private labels.

But between the price wars being waged by Leclerc, Carrefour, Intermarchés and Lidl, the "very low margins" and the "lack of growth" in the sector, the context makes any change of model towards a more virtuous form "complicated" without "weakening the economic model", says Remy Gerin, director of the FMCG chair at Essec.

The influence of large-scale retailers on food consumption is considerable: according to the FCD (supermarket employers' federation), food in large supermarkets generates nearly €200 billion in annual revenue. However, large retailers "decide what they put on their shelves, set the prices, and decide which items they promote," points out Remy Gerin. The preponderance of red meat and prepared meals to the detriment of plant-based foods, for example, is one of the most common criticisms in surveys by NGOs and associations.

"By focusing on promoting certain foods (healthy, unprocessed, vegetarian products), distributors would be able to create markets," according to Charlie Brocard, who uses the example of organic products. "When distributors withdrew from organic products, sales declined. This demonstrates their real power over demand," explains the researcher.

Elsewhere in Europe, examples exist. The Belgian-Dutch retail giant Ahold Delhaize, for example, claimed to offer 44.1% plant-based protein in its supermarkets in the Netherlands by 2023. "The power of supply exists, but it's not the only one. We must not absolve consumers of their responsibilities," responds Layla Rahhou, secretary general of the FCD, for whom the food transition is "a global societal issue" and "a fight that (mass retailers) cannot fight alone."

This is also what emerges from interviews conducted by the Climate Action Network with leaders in the sector.

"We need benchmarks," said Dominique Schelcher, CEO of Coopérative U, for example, who says he is "very much in favor of environmental labeling," which he considers "essential." Since the 2021 Climate Law, France has planned to introduce environmental labeling on all food products to better inform consumers, similar to the Nutri-Score.