Day of the Dead in Bordeaux: two days to celebrate, have lunch and dance with the dead, at Caserne B

The association has been organizing this event for about fifteen years. "Because it's a major Mexican cultural event that we want to showcase to all the people of Bordeaux and Latin Americans," explains its president, Alejandro Zapata, who is also a distant descendant of the famous revolutionary ("Over there, they form large families…")

“In Europe, All Saints’ Day is rather sad,” continues the president, a graduate of the Beaux-Arts and also known by his stage name DJ Zapata. “We try to show why here it’s colorful and joyful. It’s a reunion. A way to celebrate our departed loved ones who return for a day, for a shared meal.”

A metaphysical, or symbolic, return, celebrated with a host of small rituals. An altar is set up, adorned with incense, flowers, food and drink, and portraits of the deceased – participants are invited to place their photos there. To guide the dead, candles are lit, and patterned papers (papels picados) are floated in the air. To put them at ease, decorated skulls ("Calaveras") are displayed, and people also dress up as skeletons, the most famous example being La Catrina, popularized by the painter Diego Rivera: her nose cut off, her mouth sewn shut, and her eyes rimmed with charcoal.

This Saturday, a crowd of families gathers at the Caserne. For the living and the departed, tacos, tamales, and other snacks are on offer. There's also "pan de muertos" (bread of the dead), flavored with orange blossom: the deceased, as everyone knows, are fond of the smell. The bar also advertises a "death cocktail," made with tequila. Some arrive already in costume, and these often have Latin American roots, like the Franco-Chilean family from Albi.

Others stop by the makeup workshops, next to the stalls selling Mexican (fair trade) crafts. There are also piñatas, those objects or figurines filled with sweets that are broken to ward off bad luck. This Saturday evening, everyone is waiting for the "Most Beautiful Catrina" contest.

Over these two days, there will be many concerts. "An international lineup. We'll start gently with boleros, then mariachis, and then cumbias," explains DJ Zapata. The important thing is that the dead feel at home here.