On a chicken nugget or a hot dog, in cocktail bars... In New York, caviar is getting more racy

The object of the crime is lukewarm: a spoonful of caviar, delicately placed on a chicken nugget . The arrangement sits on a tiered platter, a pastiche of French service. The invitation to share this trophy on Instagram is barely veiled: maximum viral potential, guaranteed free publicity. On a banquette, young women play Marie Antoinette and snap selfies in front of "The Golden Nugget" (registered trademark!), the new star of dinner parties in town, found at Cocodaq, a Korean restaurant located in the shadow of the Flatiron Building. The amuse-bouche serves as a loss leader to consume more fried chicken washed down with bubbles, as in Seoul - the menu boasts some 400 champagne references.

Coqodaq's bet is clear. On the one hand, to ennoble fried chicken and, while we're at it, sell it at a premium. On the other, to transform caviar into a pop pleasure. "We make it a point of honor to remain affordable ," assures the barmaid, a redheaded Texan...