Why Biologique Recherche’s VIP O2 Collection Will Be an Instant Cult Favorite
For decades, French skin-care brand Biologique Recherche has been something of an insider secret: a spa mainstay and celebrity- and beauty-editor-favorite that uses cutting-edge science to deliver serious results. Designed to adapt to and address skin’s unique needs in the face of influences like weather, stress, and lifestyle, its formulas have become iconic to those in the know. Case in point: The brand’s beloved Lotion P50 is among ELLE editors’ best beauty products of all time.
Now, Biologique Recherche’s legacy continues with the new VIP O2 collection. An innovative upgrade to the existing line, it harnesses the oxygen in your body to deliver brighter, smoother, and firmer skin. Here’s a closer look at how the range’s patented VIP 02 complex works, and why each product in the lineup is bound to become yet another game-changer from the brand.
The BackgroundThe original VIP O2 line, which debuted in 1998, was the brainchild of the brand’s founder, biologist Yvan Allouche; his goal was to support skin oxygenation in cases where it was compromised (think high-pollution areas). The evolution of VIP O2 draws on the power of melatonin to create a much more precise—and therefore effective—treatment. The new collection “aims to optimize the skin’s natural functions by activating the right mechanisms at the right moment, in the right place,” says Dr. Hélène Huguet, global VP of research and development at Biologique Recherche. It achieves this with a patented complex that supports skin’s natural functions, ultimately restoring moisture and radiance to a dull, tired, or otherwise stressed-out complexion.
Let’s start with a quick biology refresher. Your skin cells are run by mitochondria (a.k.a. the powerhouses of the cell), which need oxygen to make adenosine triphosphate, or ATP—basically energy, in the form of a molecule that fuels most cellular functions. When mitochondria start to malfunction, which can happen with age or from oxidative stress, “energy production drops, biological signals are deregulated, and metabolism becomes less efficient,” says Dr. Huguet. “Clinically, this appears as dull, uneven skin with irregular texture, reduced radiance, and diminished hydration.” In other words, your skin is—and begins to look—tired.
That’s where VIP O2 comes in. Biologue Recherche’s R&D team’s search for a way to help mitochondria better use the oxygen that’s already in your body led them to study melatonin, which is naturally found in small amounts in the skin. In addition to its function in regulating circadian rhythms, melatonin can also act as a powerful antioxidant, helping mitochondria pick up more oxygen and boost ATP production, according to Huguet: “This mechanism goes far beyond simple oxygenation—it reactivates the skin’s energy.”
Ultimately, the team at Biologique Recherche made melatonin the star of its new VIP O2 complex, along with two bioactive compounds that help the hormone work even better to energize skin.
By helping your cells use more oxygen—and thereby get more energy—the new VIP O2 collection ultimately restores skin to its most efficient self. That translates to a more even texture, a more radiant glow, and well-hydrated skin. The range contains four products: Lait VIP O2, a milky cleanser; Masque VIP O2, a moisturizing face mask; Crème VIP O2, a lightweight emulsion; and Crème Contour Des Yeux VIP O2, a dark-circle-fighting eye cream.
“VIP O2 is suitable for all skin types, with a particular focus on those exposed to aggressive external factors such as pollution, UV exposure, stress, and imbalanced lifestyles,” says Dr. Huguet. Even if you don’t feel like you experience this level of exposure, the range can still enhance the overall quality of your skin. In that way, it’s kind of like oxygen itself: an essential for everyone.
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This cleansing milk eliminates pollution particles that impair skin oxygenation and increase oxidative stress. It also removes dirt, grime, and even waterproof makeup from skin, leaving it feeling clean yet comfortable.
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The cleanser is followed by this 15-minute face mask, which delivers a high concentration of active ingredients (including the VIP O2 complex) to help restore elasticity and visibly improve skin’s look and feel. And the luminous, supple results last after you rinse: In a study conducted by the brand, hydration was increased by 81 percent after four hours.
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Once you rinse off the mask, you lock in the effects with the Crème VIP O2. The lightweight emulsion sinks in quickly to deliver hydration and soothe skin, courtesy of the VIP O2 Complex, sodium hyaluronate, and vitamin E. In just one hour after application, hydration increased by 88 percent, according to testing from the brand.
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And finally, for the more delicate eye area, the Crème Contour Des Yeux VIP O2 pairs the eponymous complex with other targeted ingredients, like avocado oil and quinoa extract, to help fade dark circles and nourish skin. The brand’s testing found a 100 percent increase in moisturization after one hour of wear, a 46 percent improvement in radiance of the eye area, and a 27 percent reduction in dark circles.
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