Can an old grandfather watch be worth a fortune? Pay attention to this detail

At first glance - an ordinary, old watch. Maybe slightly scratched, with a faded dial and a strap that remembers other times. For years treated as a family heirloom or simply forgotten. Meanwhile, in the world of vintage watches, it can turn out to be a treasure worth thousands, even hundreds of thousands of zlotys. So before you wave your hand and throw it back into the drawer, stop and check! Here are 7 things that can make your "grandfather's watch" much more valuable than you think.

One of the most important factors influencing the value of a vintage watch is its brand. A watch that has been forgotten in a drawer for years or treated only as a memento from your grandfather can turn out to be a real gem - signed with a logo as prestigious as Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin, Audemars Piguet or Jaeger-LeCoultre. These manufacturers have been creating watchmaking works of art for decades, and their old models now reach prices at auctions reaching tens or even hundreds of thousands of dollars.

Patek Philippe & Co. movement no. 97'589 - the first wristwatch sold to Henry Graves in 1928 / materials from the 2019 Christie's auction

What is important - in addition to the above - is that it is also worth paying attention not only to the most obvious and popular brands such as Rolex or Omega. There are many less widely recognized manufacturers who enjoy great recognition in the world of collectors. And their watches can also surprise with their value. Examples? Universal Genève, Vulcain, Heuer (before it became TAG Heuer), Zenith, Ebel, IWC or Longines from the past. Although not all of these names sound familiar outside the circle of enthusiasts, in the world of watchmaking they are considered symbols of quality, innovation and craftsmanship.

That's why your first step - before you decide to do anything with your old watch - should be to try to identify its make and model.

Unique watches worth a fortune among classics

Sometimes, however, it is not the brand itself, but the specific model that determines the value of the watch. Especially if it is a rare version or has unusual features. A classic example is the Rolex Daytona "Paul Newman" - today an absolute legend in the world of collectors.

In the 1960s and 1970s, Rolex released Daytona models with distinctive, alternative dials (produced by dial supplier Singer). However, they enjoyed little interest. To put it bluntly, they sold poorly and sat on store shelves for a long time because many considered them visually less attractive than the originals. It was only years later - when it turned out that actor Paul Newman regularly wore such a model - that the value of these versions increased dramatically. And the watch itself gained a nickname among the watch community: Rolex Daytona "Paul Newman".

But what exactly is it? These dials differed from the "standard" ones primarily in terms of color. While the standard versions had a black dial and white subdials, the references 6239, 6241, 6262, 6263, 6264, and 6265 had the opposite. As I mentioned, this version of the "panda dial" did not appeal to customers. As a result, Rolex did not produce many of them. It is estimated that only 5 percent of Daytona models were sold with this dial.

Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 6239 / Phillips Auction House Press Materials

That is why today the so-called Rolex Daytona "Paul Newman" can reach prices exceeding $100,000 , and a historical copy belonging to the actor himself (engraved by his wife "Drive Carefully Me") was sold at an auction by Phillips in 2017 for a record $17.8 million. This shows that even within such a famous brand as Rolex, every detail is important.

How to value a vintage watch? Originality and authenticity

In the world of vintage watches, the condition of a piece has a huge impact on its value. Collectors pay special attention to the originality of all parts: from the case, through the hands and crown, to the dial and movement.

Any replaced or non-original part can reduce the value of the watch. In particular , repainted dials (so-called "redial") or refurbished cases with shiny polished edges are considered to interfere with the original character of the timepiece. For a collector who buys your grandfather's watch, authenticity and history will count.

Of course, it is not that the condition of the watch does not matter. The more carefully preserved the piece, the better. Often the most valuable are those in NOS (New Old Stock) condition. These are watches that have never been used, usually from warehouse stock, with a full set of papers and packaging, often even with the original tag. They are extremely rare and reach high prices precisely because of their intact condition.

A collectible vintage watch - it's important that it has a history

It is worth noting, however, that some signs of the passage of time do not necessarily reduce value, but quite the opposite. Natural patina on indexes or hands, as well as the so-called "tropical dial" (i.e. a change in color caused by sunlight) are often perceived as unique proof of authenticity. Such changes are impossible to fake and one of a kind.

Girard Perragaux Gyromatic / 25dials.com press materials

They give the watch an individual character, and for many collectors they are proof that the timepiece "lived" and "has" a history. It is this imperfect, but real form of aging that makes some watches even more valuable.

Paper has power - documents, boxes and service history

Although the watch plays first fiddle, its "accompaniment" in the form of original documents and accessories can significantly increase the value of the entire set. In the world of collectors, we talk about a "full set", i.e. a set containing the watch, original box, user manual, warranty card and other documents confirming authenticity and origin. Such a set not only makes it easier to confirm the history of the watch, but also constitutes its "certificate".

Service documentation is also important. Especially if repairs were carried out at authorized points and in accordance with the art, without replacing key original components.

So if you already have an old watch from your grandfather or grandmother, don't stop at just the timepiece! Look through the attic thoroughly, look for the box there. Look into the drawers in your grandfather's desk that haven't been opened for a long time. Often, it's there that you can find forgotten documents that will increase the value of your watch.

Not every vintage watch had to be a mass-produced product. Quite the opposite – there are many models on the market that were made in limited numbers or were intended exclusively for a specific group of recipients. Examples? Omega WWW “Dirty Dozen” or Longines Greenlander, issued to British soldiers during World War II.

Omega Railmaster CK2914 - a model for railway workers , produced in the years 1957-1963 or Heuer Bundeswehr 1550 SG, ordered by the German Air Force in the 1960s.

An equally interesting case are models created specifically for the Japanese or South American markets that were not available in Europe. For example, some limited edition Seikos from the 1970s.

So if a watch has unusual markings on the dial or a logo or dedication related to some institution, it is worth taking an interest in it. It may turn out that its "niche" origins make it a real gem. Such watches, today extremely rare, may be more valuable than widely known serial models.

Another great example is watches that have a second brand name on their dials (in addition to the brand logo). Where did it come from? As a well-known jewelry retailer, Tiffany & Co. has a long history of selling watches from a variety of leading Swiss watch manufacturers, including Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Rolex.

With the latter brand , Tiffany signed a “co-branding” agreement in the late 1950s. The agreement allowed Tiffany & Co. to print its name on the dials of Rolex watches sold in their boutiques. The dual Rolex and Tiffany dials were not exclusive to any particular model, and could be found on Datejust, Oyster and Submariner models alike. However, in the early 1990s, Rolex decided to discontinue co-branded watches, wishing to retain full control over production and after-sales service. As a result, Tiffany & Co. stopped selling Rolex watches, and the two companies parted ways for good.

The fact that Rolex and Tiffany dials are no longer in production means that the numbers are now limited. And they are getting smaller as collectors buy them for their collections. Needless to say, these models command significantly higher prices than their standard counterparts from back then.

But, but! It's not just what you see that counts, but also what's inside. In vintage watches, the mechanism used also plays a role. If a timepiece is equipped with an iconic, rare or sophisticated mechanism, it can significantly increase its value. This is especially true for watches with functions (complications) that go beyond simply showing the time - such as chronographs, minute repeaters, moon phase indication or perpetual calendars.

For example, old Valjoux 72 chronographs are now icons. They were used in Rolex Daytonas, early Breitling Nivitimer, Universal Genève Compax models, and even in the “Holy Trinity” watches, namely Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Vacheron Constantin.

Similarly, the Lemania 2310 movement, used by Omega, among others, from 1946 to 1968 as caliber 321. That's right! It was this movement that was at the heart of the watches that passed rigorous NASA tests and allowed the Omega Speedmaster to earn the title "The first watch in the moon".

In addition, even if the watch brand is not very well-known, a rare and valued movement can determine its attractiveness. That is why it is always worth checking what exactly is "ticking" inside the watch. It is best to have it checked by an experienced watchmaker.

What if your grandfather's watch is neither branded nor limited, has no documents, the dial looks like it's seen a war (or two), and the mechanism looks more like a collection of random cogs than a precise movement? Not all is lost! Then it's worth checking one more thing: what is the watch actually made of?

It may turn out that even if the timepiece itself is not of great value, its case (and sometimes the bracelet) is made of gold. And this is a purely material value that can be easily converted into cash. Such watches, especially Soviet ones (e.g. Poljot, Raketa, Lucz brands), were often made of 14- or 18-carat gold and given away as state or anniversary awards . So before you write off such a watch , do a gold test. Your watch may be worth more than you think. You just have to… weigh it first.

A grandfather clock is more than just an old-fashioned gadget. It is a potential story, a keepsake, as well as an investment and… a surprise. In the world of vintage watches , the devil is in the details: brand, model, condition, complete set of documents , and even the way the dial ages. All of this can turn a seemingly ordinary timepiece into a real treasure.

So before you think it's just an old "junk" from the past, take a close look at it. It's worth seeking advice from an expert, watchmaker or collector. Because who knows? Maybe there's a watch in your drawer right now whose value can surprise even the greatest experts?