Gucci signals creative transition with lush looks recalling eras past

Say goodbye to the rich Gucci red and hello to the deep Gucci green.

The fashion giant marked its creative shift on the opening day of Milan Fashion Week by draping its showroom in a luxurious green carpet and pleated curtains. Red was the hallmark of the now-concluded Sabato De Sarno era, and the switch from red to green - both key to the Gucci stripe logo - drew a clear line under it. .

The design team had a mere 2 1/2 weeks to whip up a new collection following De Sarno's abrupt exit after just two years. They've managed tighter deadlines: The Alessandro Michele era kicked off in 2015 with a runway put together in just five days. With Michele, there were hints of what lay ahead: pussy bows and eclectic ensembles that seemed lifted straight from a vintage market. It's tricky to pinpoint what from the runway indicates the brand's fresh direction - but much of it echoed past Gucci eras.

Boxy mini-dresses harked back to the 1960s, paired with silk scarves worn around the head, sometimes over baseball caps. Slinky silk dresses with lace trim evoked the 1990s. Deconstructed pussy-bow blouses flowed romantically, perhaps a nod to the Michele era.

And staple straight skirts with deep slits and slim trousers with split hemlines brought to mind more recent seasons. The overall mood was opulent, with faux fur, satins and mother of pearl leather setting a sumptuous tone. Front row guests for this transitional Gucci show included Daisy Edgar Jones, Jessica Chastain, Parker Posey and Dev Patel.

Boxy suit jackets featuring flat pockets, harking back to the 1960s for women; slightly oversized double-blazer styles for men. Overcoats designed with short arms. Bondage-inspired leather gloves. Faux fur coats. And long bows that seamlessly transition into scarves.