The Best Small Watches for the Discerning Collector

Rejoice, ye normal wristed—the era of Big Watch is at an end!

And not a moment too soon. While the early 2000s saw 47mm Panerais and gargantuan Big Pilots, nobody seemed to be asking the pertinent question: Who are all these huge watches for? The Schwarzeneggers and Stallones of the world are few and far between — most of us are an average of 5’9” and prefer a timepiece that doesn’t hang off the edge of our wrists like a dinner plate balanced on a stick. Thankfully, watch companies seem to finally be getting the message: Over the past two or three years, we’ve seen sizes shrink back down by several millimeters. And worry not—we’re not talking about 31mm World War II-era field watches or 32mm Calatravas. We’re talking 36mm, 37mm, 38mm. In other words: the sweet spot of comfort, legibility, and robustness.

Speaking of which, we’re not just talking about dress watches, here. Sure, there are now plenty of sub-40mm time-only pieces making their way through the horological ecosystem, but there are also sub-38mm field watches, divers, and other toolish timekeepers. (36mm chronographs might be a thing permanently of the past, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing; when you’ve got two or three little registers to read, a sub-38mm dial can make for an illegible affair.) While those used to 40+mm tool (and dress) watches may need some adjusting to this new normal, they should keep in mind that, as mentioned earlier, mens’ watches during the 20th century were much smaller than they are even today. The famous A-11 field watch issued to thousands of G.I.s during World War II was roughly 31mm; the Mk. 11 pilot’s watch was 36mm; and when the Royal Oak debuted at 39mm in 1972, it was dubbed the ‘Jumbo!’ Go figure.

What follows are but a smattering of the wide range of small watches out there. Even if you’re used to fare larger than 40mm, we advise you to give one a spin. Better framed by your wrist, these smaller pieces not only feel better, but they look better, too — especially when you’re suited and booted. Who knows…maybe you’ll find that you were really a “small watch” guy at heart all along?

Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical

SPECS:Diameter: 36mmMovement: Hamilton H-50 hand-woundWater Resistance: 50mPrice: $595MORE INFO

Ever since its launch back in 2017, Hamilton’s Khaki Field Mechanical has been a fan favorite. (In fact, we’d argue that the popularity of its 36mm proportions—which echo those of the vintage field watches that inspired it—helped pave the way for the current shrinking of watches more broadly.) Powered by a hand-wound movement with 50 hours of power reserve, it comes in a range of dial and strap colors. But the original black-dial version with dart-shaped indices and a green and brown fabric strap is the version we’d spring for. Strap it on and head out into the field, and you might think you’d stepped into a Francis Ford Coppola film. (And if that ain’t your cup of tea, it also comes in white.)

Baltic MR Classic

SPECS:Diameter: 36mmMovement: Hangzhou CAL5000a automaticWater Resistance: 30mPrice: ~$621MORE INFO

French microbrand Baltic delivers vintage-inspired designs in affordable packages better than virtually anyone else. Its MR Classic, which pairs a 36mm stainless steel case in various colors with an automatic microrotor movement, is a stunning value at just a bit more than $600. For our money, we’d spring for the salmon-dial variant with steel Breguet numerals against a grained texture. With its offset subseconds display with a guilloché finish and a leaf handset, it smacks of classic midcentury dress watches. Measuring just 9.9mm tall and paired to a stitched navy blue leather strap, it’ll slip right under a cuff…though we’re not sure why you’d want it to.

Unimatic U5S-ML

SPECS:Diameter: 36mmMovement: Sellita SW200-1 automaticWater Resistance: 300mPrice: $995MORE INFO

Looking for a perfect everyday watch created by a brand with excellent design sensibilities? How about two brands with excellent sensibilities, then? The U5S-ML is a collaboration between Italian microbrand Unimatic—a firm famous for its affordable, minimalist tool watches—and William Massena, noted horological authority and founder of Massena LAB. Measuring 36mm in brushed stainless steel and featuring a distinctive oversized crown, it boasts a black dial with large white sword hands (and a handy date window) inspired by the works of Dieter Rams for Braun. Powered by an automatic Swiss movement and shipping with two straps, it’s a thing of sub-40mm beauty.

Junghans Max Bill Automatic Bauhaus

SPECS:Diameter: 38mmMovement: Junghans J800.1 / ETA 2824-1 automaticWater Resistance: 30mPrice: $1,590MORE INFO

A special timepiece made to celebrate the centenary of the Bauhaus movement in 2019, the Junghans Max Bill Automatic Bauhaus is a modern, automatic version of a hand-wound classic from the mid-20th century. Conceived of for German watchmaker Junghans by famed Bauhaus designer Max Bill, it features the minimalist codes that has made the Dessau-founded design school so popular: Measuring 38mm in stainless steel, its white dial with simple line indices and cardinal lume plots is broken only by a date window at 3 o’clock and a luminescent sword handset—both of which are red to mark the centenary. Paired to a leather strap and powered by a Swiss movement, the Max Bill Automatic Bauhaus is a study in simplicity.

TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph

SPECS:Diameter: 38mmMovement: TAG Heuer Solargraph Calibre TH50-00Water Resistance: 200mPrice: $1,900MORE INFO

Launched at Watches and Wonders 2025, the new TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph sees the brand picking up where it left off with 2024’s Kith collaboration: Based upon the undeniably awesome and highly collectible Formula 1 watches from the 1980s—of which the brand sold more than three million—the new version has received several upgrades: In stainless steel or high-tech, lightweight TH-Polylight, it comes with the Solargraph quartz-powered movement, which allows it to run for a full day with just two minutes’ exposure to light. (Or for 10 months on a 40-hour charge.) Our favorite is also one of the non-limited models: With its red and white dial, black dive bezel and steel bracelet, it looks like a million bucks.

Tudor Black Bay 54

SPECS:Diameter: 37mmMovement: Tudor Manufacture Calibre MT5400 automaticWater Resistance: 200mPrice: $4,050MORE INFO

The Tudor Black Bay 54 is, quite simply, a watch collector’s dream: Based upon a vintage Tudor dive watch from the 1950s, it’s nearly a note-for-note copy—right on down to the 37mm proportions. Paired to a rivet-style bracelet with Tudor’s beloved “T-fit” clasp, it features a domed black dial with gilt accents and the brand’s signature “snowflake” hands, plus the type of smaller crown that was common to certain of these references back in the mid-20th century. Powered by Tudor’s chronometer-certified Manufacture Calibre MT5400 automatic movement and water resistant to 200m, it’s a rough-and-ready watch despite its dressier proportions and aspect. Just be careful—your significant other might be tempted to steal it right off your wrist.

IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36

SPECS:Diameter: 36mmMovement: IWC cal. 35111 automaticWater Resistance: 60mPrice: $5,600MORE INFO

The modern version of the famed “Mark” series of military pilot’s watches, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 features everything you need in a smaller tool watch—and nothing you don’t. Its brushed steel case features a screw-down caseback and crown, while its matte black dial is typical of a classic pilot’s watch face: With an open minute track in white; a lumed set of sword hands; and large white Arabic indices, it also features a handy date window whose black disc and white printing fit right into the design. Powered by an automatic movement, this version comes paired to a handsome steel multi-link bracelet, adding a bit of modernity to an otherwise classic tool watch type.