I visited under-rated market town with proper pubs and a meal I'd travel miles for

A proper market town boasts a good selection of pubs, independent shops and unique cafes offering local produce and quality coffee. One such town is nestled at a crossroads in mid Wales. Despite its many attractions, it's an underrated gem that often goes unnoticed.

Rhayader, home to the stunning dams and reservoirs of the Elan and Claerwen Valleys, is one of Wales' finest market towns and certainly worth a detour when journeying along the A470. This community-centric market town serves as an ideal base for biking, hiking and wildlife spotting, and is especially picturesque during the autumn season as the foliage begins to transform.

Historically, Rhayader has been a mid-Wales hub for weary travellers, serving as a staging post for drovers and those journeying the lengthy route from London to Aberystwyth, reports Wales Online.

Today, it's recognised as the gateway to the Elan Valley and is situated just outside this expansive estate. It's a handy base with numerous independent shops, cafés, and pubs, and also brands itself as the 'outdoors capital of Wales'.

This destination is undoubtedly one of the top picks in Wales for an exhilarating bike ride followed by a hearty Sunday lunch at one of the many pubs scattered around the town.

Here's how to make the most of a visit to Rhayader for authentic pubs, autumnal walks and a cafe stop for the best Welsh rarebit you'll ever savour.

In Rhyader, you'll be spoilt for choice when it comes to pubs. Despite being a relatively small town, it boasts a surprising number of quality establishments.

In fact, back in 2008, it was recognised as having the most pubs per capita in Wales, much to the delight of its thirsty inhabitants.

For a hearty Sunday lunch, make your way to The Crown. Here, you'll be treated to generous helpings of meat and vegetables, complete with Yorkshire pudding.

This is a no-nonsense, satisfying meal that's reminiscent of home cooking, served with lashings of gravy. You certainly won't leave feeling peckish.

A short walk away in Cwmdauddwr, you'll find the Historic Triangle, a beautiful 16th-century drover's inn. With a cosy fire, real cask ales on tap, and homemade food featuring several pub favourites, it's a must-visit.

The Lamb and Flag is another excellent choice for ales, traditional bar meals, and Sunday carveries. Meanwhile, the vibrant green Elan Hotel's bar offers a good range of drinks.

For a more casual dining experience, pop into The Lost ARC. This quirky community café serves up lunch and coffee, including a true classic – a delicious Welsh rarebit.

This consists of toasted bread topped with warm, mature cheddar, Welsh ale, and a hint of laverbread and mustard. It's truly divine. In addition to this, they also offer coffee, cakes, light lunches, and a variety of vegan options.

By night, this trendy establishment morphs into a live music venue, showcasing up-and-coming acts and hosting popular pizza nights.

The Old Swan Tea Rooms is a traditional family-run tea room and cake shop, providing a delightful spot for homemade pasties, cakes, and lunches. Don't miss their incredibly moreish chicken curry, made from a family recipe.

If you're seeking a top-notch caffeine hit in Rhayader, make a beeline for Narrative Coffee, the new arrival on the high street that's already causing a stir. Despite being less than a year old, they've amassed over 120 five-star Google reviews!

This chic little spot recently reached the finals of the UK Coffee Masters in London, an impressive achievement, and the team is thrilled to be recognised as one of the premier places for speciality coffee in Wales.

In addition to pubs, Rhyader is also a charming destination for shopping at independent stores and boutiques. Along the main thoroughfare, there's a compact shopping area where you can peruse a range of antiques, local crafts, prints, pottery, upcycled clothing, and local souvenirs.

One of the more unique shopping options here is Hafod Hardware, a vintage-style, family-run hardware store that has been in operation since 1895.

Alongside standard DIY items and kitchenware, you can also purchase vintage-style tourism prints of Wales, specially crafted Elan Valley mugs, and chocolate bars that are perfect for Christmas gifts.

Quillies is a must-visit for its array of locally crafted items, including pottery, textiles, jewellery, and fused glass.

Family-run No8 Clothing offers a retail therapy fix with men's, women's, and children's clothing, accessories, and gifts on offer.

The two-storey shop stocks popular brands such as Joules, Brakeburn, Seasalt, Soya Concept, Mistral, Joe Browns, Wrangler, Pachamama, Jellycat, and Powder.

River Wood stands out as the UK's only gallery-bookshop dedicated solely to wildlife and wild places, boasting original paintings, prints, cards, and books. The upper floor houses a working artist's studio and space for creative workshops.

For quality outdoor gear, Hill Walking provides a good range of clothing, boots, and accessories from brands like Urban Road, Game, Regatta, Trespass, and Craghoppers, all perfect for navigating Wales' wildly unpredictable weather conditions.

Beyond the town, there are ample activities and outdoor adventures to keep you entertained. Rhayader serves as the gateway to the stunning Elan Valley, home to the estate's Victorian dams nestled among rolling green hills.

Constructed over a century ago to provide water to a rapidly urbanising Birmingham, these unique gravity dams attract photographers keen to capture the cascading waters.

The tale of the Elan Valley began in the late 19th century when Birmingham, an urban powerhouse during the Industrial Revolution, was experiencing swift growth.

The city was in dire need of a reliable water source, and after extensive exploration, engineers pinpointed the remote Elan Valley. With its high rainfall and steep, narrow landscape, the valley was an ideal location for a series of reservoirs.

In 1892, one of the most ambitious water supply projects of its era commenced. Over 3,000 workers were enlisted to construct dams, reservoirs, and aqueducts manually, with the aid of steam-powered machinery.

By the time the project was finished in 1904, the Elan Valley had undergone a remarkable transformation.

Four primary dams were built – Caban Coch, Garreg Ddu, Pen y Garreg, and Craig Goch. Each dam is a feat of engineering, constructed from local stone and designed to blend seamlessly into the landscape.

For instance, the Caban Coch Dam appears to be a natural cliff face from afar, but up close, its sheer size and the sound of water cascading over its edge are truly breathtaking.

The reservoirs themselves, vast and deep bodies of water, mirror the surrounding hills and sky, creating a picture-perfect scene.

A map of the estate can be obtained from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, where staff are also on hand to recommend scenic routes to view the dams.

The optimal time to take a leisurely drive around the estate is after heavy rainfall (which isn't exactly rare in Wales) when reservoir water spills over the steep, 'Birmingham Baroque'-style structures.

Fancy a guided tour by a local expert?

You can arrange a customised tour of the Elan Valley and the Cambrian Mountains area with Cambrian Safaris, discovering all the hidden gems with a knowledgeable guide.

One of the top ways to explore Elan Valley is by taking a leisurely walk or bike ride along the Elan Valley Trail. This 13-mile (21km) path traces the old railway line that transported materials to the valley during the dam's construction.

Today, a well-kept trail meanders through some of the most picturesque spots in the valley.

Beginning in the quaint village of Cwmdeuddwr, just west of Rhayader, you'll follow the old Birmingham Corporation Railway line, perfectly situated to showcase Elan's finest Victorian dams.

The linear trail is mostly level, save for a few slopes and several tarmacked stretches, making it suitable for cyclists of all skill levels, including older children.

And if you fancy giving your legs a bit of extra assistance, you can always hire an E-bike in Rhayader – after all, who says you can't traverse the valley in style?

If you're not bringing your own bike, you can hire push bikes or E-bikes from either Neil's Wheels or Clive Powell Mountain Bikes. The trail should take roughly three hours, so hiring a bike for half a day should afford you ample time for photo stops and coffee breaks.

The trail ascends 165 feet from the Elan Valley Visitor Centre, passing by the awe-inspiring Caban Coch and Garreg Ddu reservoirs. When filled to the brim, millions of gallons of water tumble over the historic 120-foot-high dam walls of Cabin Coch.

Dŵr Cymru Welsh Water is the proprietor of the nearby Elan Estate, though a significant portion is vested in the Elan Valley Trust. While its primary function is to provide a clean water supply, it also serves as a meticulously managed beauty spot for intrigued visitors.

Over 80% of the valley has been designated a site of special scientific interest (SSSI), teeming with wildlife and boasting extraordinary landscapes.

Owing to its varied habitats and careful stewardship, the Elan Valley is a sanctuary for a broad spectrum of wildlife. The valley's woodlands, moorlands, and wetlands offer homes to a diverse range of species, including birds, mammals, insects, and plants.

The expansive moorland acts as a hunting ground for birds of prey, with red kites, buzzards, and occasionally peregrine falcons seen soaring high above.

For a closer encounter with the resident red kites, make your way to Gigrin Farm, renowned for its red kite feeding. Situated half a mile from Rhayader, hundreds of red kites feed here, making it the prime location in the UK to observe and photograph hundreds of wild red kites (including rare leucistic red kites).

Small-scale cattle farming is a vital part of Elan Valley's agricultural scene, with only a few farms still maintaining this tradition. Keep your eyes peeled and you'll spot cattle grazing freely on the open hills and within some enclosed habitats.

The flora of Elan Valley is equally captivating. Dense forests house ancient oaks, while the moorlands are blanketed in heather, bilberry, and mosses.

Come spring and summer, the valley's meadows come alive with wildflowers, adding vibrant hues to the landscape.

Did you know that Rhyader and the Elan Valley boast some of the world's darkest, clearest, and least polluted skies?

With its 45,000 acres of safeguarded land, Elan Valley has been at the forefront of this movement since it was awarded International Dark Sky Park status in 2015, becoming the first privately owned yet publicly accessible park globally to achieve this.

This prestigious status now ensures that Elan Valley is shielded from light pollution, providing a haven for the wealth of wildlife and nature found within the estate.

Since receiving its dark sky designation, Elan Valley has gained recognition as one of the world's premier stargazing destinations and has featured in numerous stargazing guides, talks, and books.

But what does this mean for those who love to gaze at the stars?

Simply put, it means minimal light pollution and skies so clear that you can see the Milky Way, meteor showers, and even the faint glow of neighbouring galaxies with the naked eye.

The valley's remote location and thoughtful conservation efforts make it a standout spot for those seeking a deeper connection with the cosmos.

Here you'll find several prime locations for stargazing. Each offers a unique perspective on the night sky, whether you're a casual observer or an avid astrophotographer.

Bring a red-light torch to preserve your night vision and allow your eyes 20 minutes to adjust to the darkness for the full experience.

For a more interactive experience, look out for organised stargazing events in the area to connect with the cosmos or try your hand at astrophotography.

The Elan Valley Trust and Dark Sky Wales regularly host guided tours and workshops offering expert insights and access to telescopes.

For dark sky events, check the Elan Valley's What's On webpage, Facebook (ElanValley), and Instagram (@elanvalley).

Mid Wales Holiday Lets

These reasonably priced holiday lets can sleep up to 44 people, and Glandwr House, Afonwy House, The Old Drapers, The Bakehouse, and The Cwtch are all available.

The handsome red-brick converted townhouses are perfect for groups of friends or families travelling together in the Elan Valley area. Cyclists are well catered for, with secure bike storage available to ensure your equipment is safe. After a day of exploring, the outdoor hot tub provides the perfect spot to relax and soothe tired muscles.

Ty Morgans

For those looking to stay in the heart of Rhayader, Ty Morgans offers a blend of historic charm and contemporary style.

This reasonably priced boutique accommodation is ideally located at the crossroads of Rhayader, making it an excellent base for exploring both the town and the Elan Valley area.

The design thoughtfully incorporates original features such as oak beams and stone fireplaces, whilst also providing all the modern conveniences you'd expect, including en suite bathrooms.

Ty Morgans also boasts an on-site bar and restaurant, serving everything from full Welsh breakfasts to evening meals. Its central location means local shops, pubs, and the Riverside Walk are just a short stroll away.

Elan Valley Hotel

Just a brief drive from the Elan Valley, the Elan Valley Hotel offers a unique blend of comfort and convenience, all wrapped up in a boutique hotel experience.

Here, guests can enjoy well-furnished rooms with stunning views of the surrounding countryside. Each room is designed with comfort in mind, featuring luxurious beds and modern amenities.

The hotel's restaurant is famed for its exceptional menu, which utilises locally-sourced ingredients to offer a truly authentic taste of Wales.

This is the perfect location for those wanting to explore the Elan Valley's numerous trails and reservoirs whilst indulging in a bit of luxury.

Rhayader, known as the gateway to the Elan Valley, is conveniently reachable from various locations across Wales and England.

By car: If you're travelling by car, Rhayader is well-connected via the A470 and A44, offering a picturesque drive from cities such as Cardiff (roughly two and a half hours), Birmingham (just over two hours), or Shrewsbury (around 90 minutes). The roads leading into mid-Wales meander through stunning countryside, so do allow some extra time for slower rural routes and photo opportunities.

By public transport: You can also travel by train and bus, although services are somewhat limited in this rural area. The closest train station is in Llandrindod Wells, approximately 12 miles away, with connections provided by Transport for Wales.

From there, a local bus service can take you to Rhayader. For more details and timetables, refer to Traveline Cymru or use transport apps to assist in planning your journey.