Stunning cobbled streets village with ruins of medieval castle no one knows about

On Northumberland’s rugged coastline lies Craster, a small fishing village whose reputation rests on two things - its centuries-old kipper-smoking tradition and its proximity to one of England’s most dramatic castle ruins.

Despite its size, its history, location and character have made it one of the county’s most recognisable coastal stops.

Craster is synonymous with L. Robson & Sons, a traditional smokehouse that has operated for generations. Using age-old methods, the family business produces oak-smoked kippers that are shipped across the UK and have earned acclaim well beyond the North East - with reports that they’ve even been enjoyed by members of the British Royal Family.

The distinct aroma from the smokehouse often drifts over the village, mingling with the sea air.

The harbour remains an active working port, with fishing boats sheltered by stone breakwaters. Surrounding it are narrow lanes lined with grey stone cottages, small cafes and local galleries. But for many visitors, the highlight is the 1.3-mile coastal walk that starts just beyond the harbour and leads to the imposing ruins of Dunstanburgh Castle.

Following the shoreline, the path offers open farmland on one side and the North Sea on the other, often accompanied by the sound of seabirds overhead. The route is straightforward and suitable for most walkers, though it can be exposed in windy conditions.

There is a shorter alternative from Dunstan Steads, skirting a golf course, but starting in Craster creates a stronger sense of connection between the village and the fortress.

Dunstanburgh Castle was built in 1313 by Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, one of the wealthiest and most influential men of the period. At the time, it was the largest castle in Northumberland. Its vast gatehouse and towers were designed not only for defence but as a bold political statement, aimed in part at intimidating his cousin and rival, King Edward II.

Thomas’s time there was brief. After leading a failed rebellion against the king, he was captured and executed in 1322. The castle passed to the Crown and went on to play a key role in later conflicts, including the Wars of the Roses. By the 1500s it had begun to fall into ruin, its remote position and exposure to the elements hastening its decline.

Over the centuries, its dramatic coastal setting attracted artists such as J. M. W. Turner, while local folklore added tales of secret tunnels and ghostly figures. During the Second World War, the headland returned to military use, with trenches, pillboxes and barbed wire installed in preparation for a possible invasion that never came.

Today, English Heritage manages the site. While much of the structure is in ruins, the scale remains striking. The grassy headland is edged by cliffs - fenced for safety - and visitors can explore the gatehouse remains, climb Lilburn Tower for views north to Bamburgh Castle, or look out to sea from the rugged shoreline.

The surrounding area is rich in wildlife. The nearby Arnold Memorial Nature Reserve is a haven for birdwatchers, with spring colonies of kittiwakes and fulmars, and occasional sightings of rarer species such as wryneck and red-breasted flycatchers.

For those continuing on foot, the coastal path runs north from the castle to Newton-by-the-Sea, a quiet village with a sandy bay and The Ship Inn, known for its locally brewed beers. Heading south from Craster leads towards Howick, passing Cullernose Point — a basalt headland popular with nesting seabirds.