The ultimate guide to the Canary Islands: I've been going to this haven for more than 20 years and forget the critics who say it's tacky, these are the stunning spots away from the crowds that you must visit

If there’s one place that is sure to get the holiday snobs raving, it’s the Canary Islands.

I’ve lost count of the wrinkled noses and cries of ‘tacky Tenerife’ and ‘Lanzagrotty’ I’ve had thrown at me when I say I’m heading there again on holiday. But I’ve been visiting these islands for more than 20 years – and have also called them home several times when the draw of near-constant Spanish sunshine proved irresistible.

That warm weather is part of what draws so many British tourists every year. Yet many visitors miss so much of what the islands have to offer away from the major resorts – from majestic natural landscapes to fabulous vineyards, secluded coves and cultural curiosities.

Here are a few of my favourite sights and experiences away from the crowds.

Rock of ages

One of Gran Canaria’s most famous sights is the Roque Nublo, a 260ft (80m) basalt rock that sits on top of a mountain. It’s a popular hiking route, but I prefer its sibling, the Roque Bentayga.

This alternative monolith sits on a plateau and was the last stronghold for the island’s original inhabitants before the Spanish conquistadors came. It’s an easy hike and has a great visitor centre where you can learn more about pre-Hispanic times.

My tip: Check out the unusual ancient rock carvings at the top of Roque Bentayga.

Where to stay: Doubles at Parador de Cruz de Tejeda start at £113 (paradores.es).

Capital gains

Las Palmas de Gran Canaria – the island’s capital – is Spain’s ninth largest city yet most holidaymakers ignore it. It has a thriving arts scene with many galleries, museums and an opera house, two fabulous beaches and one of the hottest food and drink scenes in Spain.

My tip: In the Ciudad Jardin neighbourhood, you’ll find the British Club and the Holy Trinity Anglican Church, built in the late 1800s.

Where to stay: The island’s grand dame, the Santa Catalina, has doubles from £156 (barcelo.com).

Beach vibes

If Playa del Ingles is the rowdy teenager, then San Agustin on Gran Canaria’s south coast is its grown-up sibling.

Attracting those looking for a more laid-back break, San Agustin has a huge sandy beach, shops, bars and restaurants and it’s all just one bay away from the nightlife of Maspalomas and Playa del Ingles.

My tip: Book the thalassotherapy facilities at the Gloria Palace Hotel (gloriapalaceth.com).

Where to stay: Paradisus by Melia Gran Canaria has minimum four-night stays from £1,477 all-inclusive (melia.com).

Fisherman's Friend

While the town of Corralejo in north-east Fuerteventura, with its fine beaches, is set up for holidaymakers, the nearby coastline can get crowded. Instead, venture to the opposite coast to the former fishing village of El Cotillo.

The sands are just as spectacular but with fewer people. You will also find the surf crowd here.

My tip: El Cotillo enjoys spectacular sunsets – pack a picnic and head for the beach.

Where to stay: The four-room El Hotelito del Cotillo has doubles from £74 (hotelitocotillo.com).

Through the grapevine

‘Farewell, my hearts: I will to my honest knight Falstaff, and drink canary with him,’ says The Host in Shakespeare’s The Merry Wives Of Windsor. He’s talking about wine from the Canary Islands, which was much prized.

Nearly all the islands make wine, but Lanzarote’s vines are famous for growing in deep pits of volcanic picon soil.

My tip: Wine Tours Lanzarote (winetourslanzarote.com) will collect you from your hotel, guide you around wineries for tastings, and drop you back afterwards.

Where to stay: The super-stylish boutique hotel Cesar Lanzarote has doubles from £394 (annuahotels.com).

Sand and surf

The 3.5-mile beach in Famara is ideal for all sorts of watersports – especially surfing – as well as being popular among those who enjoy lingering walks. It is rarely crowded, with sun-seekers put off by its strong tides, but at low tide many shallow natural pools are formed for taking a dip.

My tip: Head up on to the cliff to the Mirador del Risco de Famara for incredible views.

Where to stay: Doubles in Hotel Emblematico La Casa de los Naranjos in nearby Haria start at £106 (lacasadelosnaranjos.com).

Prehistoric plants

Many visitors head up Spain’s highest mountain, El Teide, and it’s easy to see why.

The soaring peak of the volcano is pretty spectacular, but the island also has several other parks and impressive natural sights. Anaga Rural Park, in the north-east, is a biosphere that’s home to laurisilva forests. The laurel plants exist from when Europe was covered in rainforests.

My tip: Book a guided hike with Anaga Experience (anagaexperience.com).

Where to stay: Doubles at Iberostar Heritage Grand Mencey in Santa Cruz de Tenerife start from £114 (iberostar.com)

Whistle-stop tour

If you are staying near Costa Adeje or Los Christianos, a day trip or an overnighter to the neighbouring island of La Gomera is well worth it.

The capital San Sebastian de la Gomera is tiny and historic. Hiking is great in the mountainous centre or the Garajonay National Park, plus there are great views towards Tenerife and El Teide.

My tip: Try almogrote – a strong cheese paste that is often served as a starter with bread.

Where to stay: The clifftop Parador de La Gomera has doubles from £117 (paradores.es).

Storied streets

Garachico is a little town on Tenerife’s north coast. It was once the island’s busiest port, exporting wine and sugar cane, before the Trevejo volcano erupted in 1706, covering parts of it in lava and destroying the port. Garachico today is a quiet town, popular for hikers going to El Teide National Park and Teno Rural Park.

My tip: Visit one of the natural sea pools along the coast.

Where to stay: B&B doubles at Boutique Hotel San Roque start from £212 (hotelsanroque.com).

Stellar views

The island of La Palma, also known as La Isla Bonita, is incredibly green and lush.

It is ideal for hikers and also stargazers, thanks to its low light pollution. With more than 20 international telescopes, La Palma is one of the best places on Earth to look out into the stars.

My tip: Book an experience with LaPalmastars.com.

Where to stay: Hotel San Telmo in Santa Cruz de La Palma is a cute boutique with doubles from £74 (hotel-santelmo.com).

Edge of the world

There are eight official Canary Islands in the archipelago, and the second smallest after La Graciosa is El Hierro.

The island, including its surrounding waters, is a Unesco Global Geopark because of how it was formed 1.2 million years ago and how its has since evolved.

The island runs almost entirely on renewable energy.

Top tip: Visit the bending trees of El Sabinar – juniper trees sculpted by constant trade winds.

Where to stay: Tiny Hotel Puntagrande has doubles from £208 B&B, minimum stay two nights (hotelpuntagrande.com).