Jönköping: Sweden's best-kept summer secret
Travelers heading further north often overlook the municipality of Jönköping, with its nearly 148,000 inhabitants in the province of Småland, located directly on the E4 highway. Locals agree that the most beautiful section of this route runs through their region – along the southern shore of Lake Vättern, Sweden's second-largest lake. But instead of just driving through, it's worth stopping in both the city of Jönköping itself and the surrounding towns.
You'll embark on a journey of discovery between the historic center of matchstick production and the roots of the equally world-famous "polkagris" (typical Swedish candy canes). You can relax on sandy beaches or take a ferry to the largest island in Lake Vättern. Sip coffee with a panoramic view of the lake, feast on apples from the "Tuscany of Sweden," or spend the night in a castle. We'll share our top eight reasons why you should visit Jönköping on your summer vacation in Sweden.
A highlight of Jönköping is the historic matchstick district.
Source: Bernadette Olderdissen
Jönköping is located just under 330 kilometers southwest of Stockholm and less than 150 kilometers east of Gothenburg. Unlike Sweden's two largest cities, it isn't known for its size, but it is known for its matches! What few people know: Jönköping was long world-famous for its matchstick production and is still associated with these practical sticks. This came about when the brothers Johan Edvard and Carl Frans Lundström founded Sweden's first industrial matchstick factory in Jönköping in 1848. The location was ideal, with easy access to timber, waterways, and railway lines.
Today, the "Tändsticksområdet," the Matchstick Quarter, commemorates this era. The area surrounding the historic Matchstick Museum is a lovingly preserved industrial monument with a workshop atmosphere. The old brick buildings now house creative studios, galleries, and restaurants (especially recommended: Pescatores, with its delicious fish dishes). In the museum itself, you'll learn the stories of the people who shaped the industry. For example, Lena Törnquist, one of many women and children who worked there under harsh conditions—often with dangerous phosphorus that ruined teeth and health.
The best panoramic view of the Matchstick Quarter is offered by the Quality Hotel Match , whose striking, dark tower has dominated the cityscape since 2022. High up on the 16th floor, you'll enjoy a 360-degree view of the historic buildings, the entire city, and Lake Vättern. At the time of research, however, there was no public viewing platform. Alternatively, the city park, located on a hill just under two kilometers from the center, offers a beautiful city panorama.
The lakeside promenade along Lake Vättern is ideal for strolling or cycling. On warm days, a dip in the lake at the city's sandy beach is a great option. In the traffic-calmed city center, however, you'll find a mix of shops, cafés, and restaurants. A walk to the other side of the small lake Munksjön, which bisects the city center, is worth a visit, among other things, to the Jönköping County Museum.
There, you'll first immerse yourself in the mystical world of images by John Bauer – arguably the region's most famous artist, born in Jönköping in 1882. His drawings transport visitors to a world full of trolls, nature, and Nordic legends. Families with children in particular can get creative there: in the seasonally themed rooms, they can paint, play, and explore.
The museum also features changing exhibitions, such as those on Viking culture or urban farming, and houses a "Blue Hall" with an interactive tablet tour. Those interested in the city's history can visit the historic wing dating back to 1956 – or browse the museum shop for Jönköping souvenirs that are otherwise hard to find in the city.
The Rosenlund Rosarium is one of Jönköping’s most beautiful attractions.
Source: Bernadette Olderdissen
About four kilometers east of Jönköping's city center lies an insider tip for flower lovers: the Rosenlund Rosarium . Surrounded by an elegant manor house dating back to 1788 and a roughly 200-year-old beech tree, a summer display of flowers unfolds that one would hardly expect in Scandinavia: Over 550 rose varieties thrive there, lovingly labeled with their names. In 2022, the Rosarium was even awarded the "Award of Garden Excellence" by the World Federation of Rose Societies—the first prize of its kind ever to go to Sweden.
The father of the rose garden is the late Björn Kalin, who founded it in 1996 and developed it into its current splendor over the decades. A small, cozy café has been located in the old horse stable since 2024. There, you can take a deep breath and absorb the aromas while enjoying a fika of homemade cake and coffee.
The best month to visit the Rosarium is July, when most rose varieties are in bloom, but some varieties can be admired as early as May and others in and after August.
The historic part of Smedbyn in Huskvarna offers a Swedish picture book feeling.
Source: Bernadette Olderdissen
If you've only ever known the Husqvarna brand, the municipality of Jönköping is home to the city where the world-famous power tools originated, even though it's spelled Huskvarna. At the Husqvarna Museum , visitors learn that the company began in 1689 as an arms factory for the Swedish military. Only later did production expand to include sewing machines and stoves, as well as bicycles, garden tools, and other equipment.
Also of interest in Huskvarna is Smedbyn – picture-perfect Sweden with cozy red wooden houses that now house artists' workshops and galleries. Originally, however, this was the settlement where the armorers lived. Equally picturesque is the red wooden church in the center of Huskvarna, completed in 1908.
A special overnight tip for fans of boutique hotels is the Huskvarna Stadshotell with its diverse themed rooms, from the “Jacuzzi Rummet” to the “Romantiska Rummet” to the “Graffiti Rummet”.
The Äppledalen is also known as the Tuscany of Sweden.
Source: Bernadette Olderdissen
North of Huskvarna, between Lake Vättern and gently rolling hills, lies one of the region's most picturesque landscapes: Äppledalen, or Apple Valley. The nickname "Sweden's Tuscany" already reveals what awaits you there: Rows of apple trees cling to the slopes, almost like vines, crisscrossed by narrow roads leading to farms, viewpoints, and craft workshops.
In summer and autumn, the valley glows in lush green, filled with the scent of fruit and freshly mown grass. A highlight for travelers is the farm shop of the Rudenstams family business, one of Sweden's largest apple producers. There, you'll find not only crisp apples but also an impressive selection of fruit juices produced on-site.
The Mousserande vita vinbärscidern (sparkling white currant juice) variety was even served as a non-alcoholic aperitif and dessert at the Nobel Prize ceremonies in 2016 and 2017. Rudenstams' apple cider is also very popular. Those who like it can stay for lunch or a fika at the café next door.
But Äppledalen has more to offer than just fruit: At Kallfeldts Laderfabrik, you can experience authentic Swedish craftsmanship. This small factory has been producing high-quality leather goods, from wallets to key chains, since 1989 – all with great attention to detail – and you can watch them at work. A particularly charming feature: visitors can stamp their own leather pendant with a name, initials, or a small moose motif.
A short but steep hiking trail takes you up to the Vistakulle viewpoint in 10 to 15 minutes, with picnic benches and fantastic views over the valley and Lake Vättern. There's a parking lot at the bottom of the trail. Along the way, you'll find other small farms, a porcelain shop with stylish unique pieces, and seasonal stalls. Almost everything is family-run and authentic. The Äppledalen map is handy; you can find it online or pick it up for free at the Rudenstams information shed, for example.
A special tip for eating or staying overnight after the tour through the Apple Valley: the Hotel and Restaurant Gyllene Uttern with a stunning view over Lake Vättern.
Västanå Castle near Jönköping was Sweden's first castle hotel and still offers unique overnight accommodation today.
Source: Bernadette Olderdissen
Just three kilometers south of Gränna lies Röttle By , a Bullerby-like village with red log cabins from the 18th and 19th centuries, but these aren't its only attraction. Röttle offers a culturally and historically rich environment, as there are still numerous industrial remains to be discovered along the gorge of the Röttleån River, which is only twelve kilometers long.
Traces of old house foundations and dams can still be found in the gorge—and two largely preserved mills, the Jerusalem Mill and the Rasmus Mill, whose current building dates back to the 1650s. Originally a boring mill for the production of muskets, it was converted into a grain mill around 1700. The mill was restored in 1977 and is now once again powered by a waterwheel.
This history comes to life especially at the Rasmus Mill, when the old wheels turn again three days a week in the summer (Tuesday, Saturday, and Sunday, from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m.). Visitors can even get involved and grind their own flour. Röttle also offers rest areas and a nature reserve with hiking trails.
Less than two kilometers from Röttle, Västanå Castle sits enthroned in expansive parkland. It was built in the 1590s by the noble Bielke family and has belonged to the von Otter family since 1785 – now in its ninth generation. Today, Frederik von Otter manages the castle, which has been operating as a hotel since 1948 – making it reputedly the first castle hotel in Sweden!
When you stay there, you'll not only be staying in a building steeped in history, but also amidst an artfully furnished ambiance: original family portraits, replicas of Old Masters, creaking floorboards, and a museum feel in every room. The grounds also include an 18-hole golf course. The castle hotel is open from mid-April to mid-October, and in winter upon request.
Gränna is famous for its typical Swedish Polkagrisar.
Source: Bernadette Olderdissen
The prettiest little town on the eastern shore of Lake Vättern is called Gränna (Grenna in English). It's certainly not an insider tip, though: It's world-famous for its typically Swedish, red-and-white striped Polkargrisar candy canes, which are often even found hanging on American Christmas trees. Red-and-white awnings or flags flutter at many shops on the main street, Brahegatan. In some shops, you can even watch Polkargrisar bakers hard at work through a glass window, including Grenna Polkagriskokeri , which opened in 1989.
There, you'll learn that Polkagris were invented in 1859 by Amalia Eriksson, a widowed mother looking for a source of income who received permission from the mayor to produce candy for sale. What began in a small kitchen has now become an institution: There are a dozen Polkagris cokeries, or candy kitchens, in Gränna and the surrounding area – some open year-round, others only in the summer. Of course, you can buy the sticky candies in all their variations by the kilo in Gränna.
Not far from Jönköping are picturesque towns on Lake Vättern, including the small town of Gränna.
Source: Bernadette Olderdissen
If you've had enough Polkagris for now, you'll also find history and culture in Gränna: the Grenna Museum , which tells two stories at once. In the town's oldest house, a wooden building dating back to the late 17th century, you'll learn a lot about Gränna's local history. Admission is free, and although many of the texts are in Swedish, a short English summary at the entrance will help you get an overview.
Right next door, a modern extension houses the story of one of the greatest polar exploration adventures: the Andrée Expedition. In 1897, engineer Salomon August Andrée, a native of Gränna, and two companions set off for the North Pole in a gas balloon. However, the men were forced to make an emergency landing, struggled through snow and ice for weeks, subsisting on polar bear meat—and eventually disappeared without a trace. Their remains were not found until 1930. The museum film (with English subtitles) and original artifacts, including clothing, diaries, cameras, and equipment, bring the drama to life.
Tip for lunch or a fika with a view: Kaffestugan Grännaberget, high above the town and Lake Vättern. If you'd like to stay overnight in Gränna and take the ferry to Visingsö, the largest island in Lake Vättern, for example, we recommend the small Hotel Grenna . It's also known for its restaurant with excellent cuisine.
The island of Visignsö is the largest in Lake Vättern and ideal for a day trip.
Source: Bernadette Olderdissen
The largest island in Lake Vättern, Visingsö, is 14 kilometers long and a maximum of three kilometers wide. This makes it a wonderful day trip. The small ferry takes about 30 minutes from Gränna's harbor, with its ice cream parlors, cafés, and restaurants, to Visingsö and even has room for a few cars. Our tip: Explore Visingsö by bike, which you can take on the ferry or rent on the island. Visingsö is home to only around 200 people, but in the summer, it attracts a lot of travelers.
A must-do on Visingsö is a ride in the Remmalag , a traditional, long horse-drawn carriage with benches along the sides. The tradition dates back to the late 19th century, when farmers would transport passengers from arriving steamships to the inn for a small fee—on simple wagons (lag = old word for truck), secured with straps (remmar) to prevent them from falling on the bumpy roads.
The leisurely tour, with informative commentary on the sights, lasts approximately 70 minutes and leads through the heart of the island, past oak forests and to the viewpoint at Kumlaby Church. You can climb steep, narrow stairs to enjoy panoramic views of the entire island. The carriage stops for 15 minutes.
As an alternative to the Remmalag, you can take a ride on the Visingsötåget, the island train. It takes about an hour and 15 minutes and stops at the Näs ruins. Also worth seeing are the ruins of Visingsborg next to the harbor and the medieval Brahe Church, whose interior features impressive Baroque details. It is usually open for tours.
A visit to the Nostalgia Museum around the small harbor is especially recommended for families with children. There, you'll feel transported back to the 1940s and 1950s, and you can admire not only historic telephone booths but also gas stations and residential buildings from that era. If you just want to relax, there are many beautiful spots for a picnic along the shore and a small outdoor pool near Kumlaby. The oak forest, meanwhile, with its walking and cycling paths, invites you to enjoy peaceful nature in an old forest area.
Café Kleven north of Gränna is an ideal spot for a fika with a view.
Source: Bernadette Olderdissen
Swedes love their fika, and the people of Jönköping agree: Café Kleven offers fika with one of the most beautiful panoramic views in the region. It is located north of Gränna above Lake Vättern and is easily accessible via a gravel road. The café is known for its traditional fika with homemade cheesecake and several other types of cakes.
The café's red wooden building also offers indoor seating in bad weather, but the terrace is best enjoyed on warm, clear days, with its stunning views over the lake and the island of Visingsö. Our travel reporter was there and agrees with the locals: Café Kleven is an absolute must for anyone who enjoys a delicious fika with a panoramic view.
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