Pierpaolo Piccioli, a Roman couturier appointed to Balenciaga

Thanks to the transfer window that has shaken the luxury industry in recent months, there remained a vacant position, and not an insignificant one: that of artistic director of Balenciaga, since Demna, who had held this position for around ten years, is joining another Kering house, Gucci , in the fall. On Monday, the brand announced the arrival of Pierpaolo Piccioli, who, after twenty-two years of good and loyal service at Valentino , left on March 22, 2024. The 57-year-old Roman indeed has the ideal profile to follow in Cristobal's footsteps, as his past collections have demonstrated a sense of purity in the couturier's tradition.

Also read: Demna appointed artistic director of Gucci

On the other hand, if the Spanish master was hardly prolific in his time, refusing all interviews, Piccioli is rather generous with himself, with the media as well as on social networks. On the occasion of this nomination, he himself wrote a letter to testify to his vision for the house as much as his emotion. " Each new story has a lot to do with the path we have taken, to who we have become and to the experiences we have lived . I am not a big believer in predestination, but, scrolling through the posts on my Instagram account, I realized that the very first photo I had posted was Cristobal Balenciaga's 1967 wedding ensemble. I don't know if I should take that as a sign... But, what I do know is that now I can see "the bigger picture" (the overall situation, editor's note) . » This premonitory photograph dates back to May 7, 2018, during the Met Gala and the opening of the exhibition "Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination" at the Costume Institute in New York. Another sign of destiny, this bridal sheath with its immaculate white veil capeline was created the year Pierpaolo Piccioli was born. In his missive, he does not fail to pay tribute to the "couturier of couturiers," the one who "infused the idea of ​​couture into all aspects of his career."

But the Italian also doesn't forget the designers who continued Balenciaga's story long after its founder retired in 1968. " Being in this position today, shaping a new story for a house where creativity has always been a culture and innovation a science, makes me very happy and proud to continue the work of those who came before me. Balenciaga is what it is today thanks to those who paved the way. Cristobal, Nicolas (Ghesquière, from 1997 to 2012), Alex (Alexander Wang, from 2012 to 2015) , Demna (from 2015 to 2025) . (…) I must first and foremost thank Demna, whose talent and vision I have always admired. I couldn't have dreamed of a better passing of the torch." » Piccioli, who has regularly supported his fellow designers in Milan and Paris, has attended some of Demna's shows in the past. Perhaps he will be present at Demna's final haute couture show on July 9?

" I am delighted to welcome Pierpaolo to the group. He is one of the most talented and recognized designers of our time."

Francesca Bellettini, Deputy CEO of Kering in charge of house development

In any case, this appointment heralds a new era at Balenciaga, a smooth transition, after a few years of turbulence - since the controversy following its advertising campaigns in 2022, sales figures have struggled to return to normal. This is something the brand's CEO, Gianfranco Gianangeli, is delighted about, " eager to open this new era with Pierpaolo," he confirms in the press release . His creative vision will be fully expressed, and he will be able to appropriately interpret the legacy of Cristobal Balenciaga, drawing on the bold creativity, rich heritage and unique culture of the house. Thanks to the expertise of our teams and the vibrant creative energy that has always driven Balenciaga, I am looking forward to what we will build together."

An enthusiasm shared by Francesca Bellettini, Kering's Deputy CEO in charge of house development, who said: "I am delighted to welcome Pierpaolo to the group. He is one of the most talented and recognized designers of our time. His mastery of haute couture, his creative voice, and his passion for craftsmanship make him an ideal choice for Balenciaga." The designer is expected to move into Balenciaga's offices in the former Laennec Hospital (also Kering's headquarters) from July 10. But he is already reportedly working with the studio, as he will present a first wardrobe in October during Paris Collection Week, which will also see the debut of Matthieu Blazy, among others, and is being billed as the "Fashion Week of the Century."