5 green getaways and 3 good places to eat well during your vacation in the Basque Country

Upper Soule is a region of wild beauty, between cliffs, canyons, and peaks reaching 2,000 meters. From Larrau, a charming mountain village, several trails are possible, including the famous GR 10: one of them leads to the Holzarte footbridge. Suspended 180 meters above the void, this 70-meter-long rope bridge was built in 1920 to allow logging. Renovated in 2010, it offers a dizzying view of the Olhadubi Gorges, an impressive 150-meter-high canyon carved by the Olhadoko Erreka River. Thrills guaranteed with the slight pitching movements as you cross over the void. An adventure to be experienced after a fairly steep climb of a good hour from the Logibar stopover lodge, the starting point of the hike. Good shoes are essential. Tardets Tourist Office, rue Arhanpia, 64470 Tardets. Tel. 05 59 28 51 28

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Iraty, the majestic beech forest

It's one of the most famous natural sites in the Basque Country, enhanced by each season. Straddling Soule, Lower Navarre, and Navarre, the Iraty Forest is the largest beech forest in Europe, covering 17,000 hectares on the mountainside. In summer, Iraty lives to the rhythm of the age-old tradition of transhumance: the sheep go up to the summer pastures at the end of spring to feast on the flora of the mountain meadows. It's also a great season for hiking, between forests and passes. On foot, the marked trails that crisscross the forest from the Chalets d'Iraty offer trails of varying lengths and levels for beginners and seasoned walkers alike. Another option is to rent a mountain bike (three designated trails). In July and August, the Iraty equestrian center also offers horseback riding and even donkey rides for the little ones. Les Chalets d'Iraty, 64560 Larrau. Tel. 05 59 28 51 29

While Hendaye boasts the largest sandy beach on the Basque Coast, the seaside resort is fortunate to have another treasure for nature lovers: Txingudi Bay, where the Bidasoa, the border river between France and Spain, unfolds to meet the Atlantic Ocean. A footpath and cycle path run along the estuary, offering breathtaking views of this enchanting landscape. As the hours and tides change, this wetland of exceptional natural beauty evolves, animated by the ballet of egrets, herons, spoonbills and other seabirds that thrive between fresh and salt water. You can also enjoy the beautiful panorama offered by the path to the neighboring village of Hondarribia, which can even be reached by river shuttle from the port of Hendaye. Hendaye Tourist Office, 67 bis, boulevard de la Mer. Tel. 05 59 20 00 34

Towards the source of the Bidouze

Straddling Lower Navarre and Soule lies the Arbailles massif, where all forms of karst relief are found and which culminates at 1,286 meters. Stretching over more than 4,500 hectares, the Arbailles beech forest is the bearer of many legends and it is easy to imagine encountering laminak, small elves from Basque mythology. Several hikes crisscross the massif: the one leading to the source of the Bidouze, starting from Saint-Just-Ibarre, invites you to immerse yourself in the freshness of this mid-mountain forest. The trail follows the river from waterfall to waterfall, through the undergrowth, until reaching the foot of the cliff and the cave from which this spring flows, giving birth to the stream. A walk offering welcome freshness in summer. Allow approximately 3 hours round trip from the parking lot in the hamlet of Arla. Saint-Palais Tourist Office, 55, avenue de Gibraltar, 64120 Saint-Palais. Tel. 05 59 65 71 78

In the Adour estuary, between the river and the Atlantic Ocean, the Izadia ecological park contains the last natural vestiges of the dune coastline of the Basque coast, between lakes, salt meadows, freshwater ponds and a coastal lagoon. A wetland of remarkable ecological diversity, damaged in 2020 by the fire that ravaged the Pignada forest and the park's pine forest. Since then, Izadia has been regenerating, an example of nature's resilience and its capacity to adapt. This evolution can be seen by following the park's discovery trail (free access) or, better still, in the company of Izadia guides (fun tours and workshops all summer long). Izadia also offers a permanent exhibition and temporary exhibitions, such as the one dedicated to migratory fish this summer, to better understand the biodiversity of this wetland. Anglet Tourism, 1, avenue de la Chambre-d'Amour, 64600 Anglet. Tel. 05 59 03 77 01

Etchemaïté Restaurant

In the heart of the village of Larrau, the Hôtel-Restaurant Etchemaïté is a Soule institution. The hotel-restaurant, housed in an authentic Haute Soule residence, invites you to enjoy gourmet cuisine inspired by local produce, such as Licq trout or Pyrenean milk-fed lamb. These simple, generous dishes, impeccably prepared by Pierre Etchemaïté and his team, are served in a rustic dining room with breathtaking views of the Pyrenees.

Le Bourg, 64560 Larrau. Tel. 05 59 28 61 45

Gamia Pass Restaurant

Perched on the heights, a few kilometers from Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, the restaurant at Col de Gamia, located in a former Basque farm, is worth visiting as much for the incredible view it offers of the mountains and the Garazi valley as for Bruno Jauriberry's cuisine. Having worked at the Auberge du Cheval Blanc in Bayonne and the Chapon Fin in Bordeaux, the chef has taken over the reins of the family hotel-restaurant. He enjoys showcasing the fruits of the labor of his neighboring farmers and breeders, and introducing (re)discovering forgotten products, such as Basque grand roux corn. A warm and authentic cuisine, to be enjoyed from the establishment's beautiful terrace. Restaurant Gamia, Col de Gamia, 64220 Bussunarits. Tel. 05 59 37 13 48

The Apostrophe Kitchen and Counter