Iceland: Stop in Reykjavik and enjoy the delights of the ends of the earth

As the crowds descend from the plane and rush towards Iceland's lunar landscapes, it is good to stop in the capital to enjoy its subtle pleasures.
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Upon arrival at Roissy-Charles-de-Gaulle airport, a brief review of the troops preparing to board Icelandair flight FI543 to Reykjavik allows passengers who have never set foot in Iceland to understand that they are divided into two clans. Those traveling in everyday clothes and visitors who have already donned competitive hiking gear. Thick fleece, waterproof pants with fluorescent stripes, poles and hiking boots, all they lack are harnesses, ropes and crampons for the ice. "The Quechua tribe and the others," mocks the city dweller unaccustomed to the globalization of hiking.
Three and a half hours of flight later, leaving the charming Keflavik airport, the smart guy is laughing a lot less when he has to pick up the rental car. The young woman at the Europcar counter had warned us: "Watch out for the wind..." That's an understatement, we're thinking more of a blizzard—at the beginning of June, the temperature was 7°C, felt like -11°C, our smartphone warned. As we opened the car door...
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