Longoni, the philosopher of yeast: "I have made mistakes, I would make them all again. Only those who sow reap"

Son of art , born and raised among sacks of flour and baskets of bread. Yet, it wasn't 'love at first sight' for baking. Love at first sight came at thirty years old after a degree in Modern Literature, majoring in History. From that moment on, he devoted himself to baking, he does it in a 'maniacal' way so much so that today he is considered the "father of modern baking": he researches, experiments and recovers the ancient technique of natural leavening.

He does it with his sourdough starter , "which has been with me since 2003". With native grains, organic stone-ground flours and only one type of bread, the round and large one. He is Davide Longoni, 51 years old, born in Brianza, but Milanese by adoption.

Let's start with the latest news about you: Gambero Rosso confirmed your Tre Pani in the Pani & Panettieri d'Italia 2026 Guide. Did you take it for granted?

"It is always a pleasure to receive this recognition, I did not take it for granted and above all it is not a goal but a stimulus to improve and innovate ourselves daily, carrying forward our thinking as urban agricultural bakers ."

In 2013 he opened his first bakery in via Tiraboschi in Milan, now he has ten. What has changed in these years?

"I have always considered the bakery as a meeting place, within the city and the neighborhood. It has been that way since the beginning. And I have always thought of my customers as conscious consumers who came to buy my bread, aware of the impact their choices have. And it has always been that way. At the time, agricultural bread like mine did not exist, it was understood - maybe not by everyone - but we sowed and today we reap. Just like you do with wheat that is sown in November and harvested in July. It takes patience".

Looking back and at the path you took, did you imagine it this way?

"I never imagined a path, but it was certainly coherent and I'm proud of that. I also overcame very difficult moments, with determination and tenacity. I also made many mistakes, which I would do again, because I learned a lot from them."

Is being a baker a job that young people still like?

"Certainly, it still has its charm and its value, there are still many new agricultural bakers. For example, many of my former employees, when they left, opened their own bakery. Today, little is done at night, you start working at five in the morning, you work five days a week, there is not even much apprenticeship to do, after 2-3 years a young person can become head of a line. If you have passion, determination and the desire to learn, it is a job that gives a lot of satisfaction".

What do you think of your colleagues, chefs or pizza chefs who have become stars on the small screen? Have you ever thought about participating in some television program?

"Let's say that I'm not against it a priori, that if they were to make me proposals I would take them into consideration especially if there is the possibility of telling what I do, my thoughts, but without becoming a character. I want to remain the person I am...".

What is your relationship with social media?

"I don't follow my social pages, but there is a person who takes care of them and agrees with me on the contents that range from commercial needs to my thoughts. I believe that social media are very useful because they create communities, the consumer wants to feel part of the choices and to know".

Plans for the future?

"Grow the farm I have in Abruzzo, between Civitaquana and Catignano, with my partner and business partner Tatiana Moreschi. Thirty hectares of fields where I grow ancient and local grains using organic and natural methods and where I have acquired 600 olive trees to produce extra virgin olive oil. Here I also have a school that trains young bakers".

What is it like working with your life partner?

"It's difficult, it never goes away. But it can also be an interesting challenge: the important thing is to find the right balance, for example if we go on a business trip, we also throw in something for ourselves, maybe a walk, a dinner at a restaurant and this helps to maintain the harmony of the relationship".

His favorite team?

"Milan, since I was little and it was still in Serie B, even if now I've "cooled down" a bit. When I was 16-18 I was a huge fan, I went to the stands and I really liked it. Now it's not like that anymore".

Last book read?

"I'm reading 'Sapiens: From Animals to Gods' by Yuval Noaha Harari, because I'm still very passionate about history."

email: [email protected]