5 New Colognes That Make Summer So Much Sweeter
Real fragrance-heads understand that scents have no gender. So why do we think certain ones are for men or women? Marketing, partly. But it’s also a matter of time and culture.
“Rose was once considered masculine, and heavy ambers were thought of as femme in the ’70s,” says David Seth Moltz, cofounder of perfumer D.S. & Durga.
Every decade or so, the way we interpret scents shifts. That’s happening now. So-called masculine colognes are skewing sweeter and softer. These five new ones defy expectations and show us it’s all in how you wear it.
Iris
The hallmark of a Dior Homme scent is the floral flash of iris; the new version is no exception. While previous iterations used the iris as a background to more traditionally masculine notes like wood, this one takes the flower to the top. The simple mix of iris, amber, patchouli, and vetiver lets the sweetness of the flower shine through while making it feel smooth, sexy, and incredibly wearable.
Jasmine
Like a velvet tuxedo from the ’70s that’s suddenly cool again, this cologne is a modern take on a vintage idea. It’s the olfactory equivalent of thrifting, using “dark flower absolutes and drab, dried flowers rather than fresh, soft buds,” says Moltz. With wild-sounding notes of brown orchids, coffee flowers, and dried jasmine buds, as well as a healthy dose of musk, it smells both familiar and completely new.
Aldehyde
That soapy, powdery smell from female-focused classics like Chanel No. 5 comes from a family of ingredients called aldehydes. Jil Sander’s new collection of unisex fragrances is heavy on those aldehydes, but they’re handled in ways you’ve never smelled before. Our favorite is Smoke, a combo of crisp cedarwood, resinous elemi, and smoky cade oil that hits you with the effect of laundry dried by a fire.
Rose
Parisian cool-guy grooming brand Horace knows that true style comes from the unexpected, which is why, for its first fragrance, the company went bold. Distinctive rose is mixed with pungent oud wood to create a surprisingly versatile, attention-grabbing fragrance. Patchouli and sandalwood round out the vibe, but the ping-pong between masculine and feminine notes is what gives it an edge.
Cherry
Fruit notes have always played a role in both masculine and feminine fragrances, but the sweeter and more syrupy they are, the more femme they tend to lean. The cherry in this cologne is juicy—like a bite into a maraschino—but the aggressive hits of leather, spices, and woods quickly steer it into distinctly masculine territory. Wearing it feels like shrugging on a motorcycle jacket and downing an old-fashioned.
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