The dangers of social media-promoted skin care programs for teenage girls have been identified

Research shows that skincare routines for teenage girls on TikTok are virtually useless. While the number of young girls sharing videos is growing, the study shows that following the instructions can cause skin irritation and lead to allergies.

Researchers have found that the skincare routines being promoted by young TikTok influencers offer little benefit and may actually increase the risk of lifelong skin irritations and allergies in children, The Guardian reports.

The team behind the research says young girls are increasingly sharing videos of elaborate skincare routines using moisturisers, toners, acne treatments and anti-ageing products.

In a first-of-its-kind study, researchers analyzed such videos on the social media platform and found that not only are such routines labor-intensive — some women wake up as early as 4.30am to get their chores done — but they are also expensive, unnecessary and potentially harmful.

“The risks associated with using these products, especially in young girls, far outweigh any small benefit you may get from using the active ingredients,” said Dr. Molly Hales, an author of the study from Northwestern University.

Hales added that while social media can be a place for playfulness and self-expression, young girls don’t need such regimes. “The danger is that girls perceive that this is what they have to do to look after their skin and protect their health,” she warns. “These products don’t improve the condition of your skin and are likely to degrade its integrity over time.”

Instead, she says, just use a gentle cleanser once or twice a day and apply sunscreen.

In a paper published in the journal Paediatrics, Hales and colleagues report how they collected a sample of 100 skin-care videos made by young people. The team found that all but one of the 82 creators were female, and their ages ranged from seven to 18.

“Almost all content creators had clear, fair skin without visible blemishes,” the researchers wrote, adding that the videos “often referenced aspirational beauty ideals that may be associated with whiteness.”

The study found that the average skincare regimen included six products, often from the same brands, for a total of $168. However, in some cases, more than a dozen products were used, for a total cost of more than $500.

The most popular videos were “Get Ready with Me,” followed by “Skin Routine” and “After School” videos.

The team found that many of the ingredients in the products on offer, such as citric acid, can cause skin irritation and increase sun sensitivity, meaning they increase the likelihood of sunburn and other skin damage. However, only 26% of the 84 videos demonstrating daytime skincare routines included sunscreen, which the authors called a “significant missed opportunity.”

Hales added that using products with multiple active ingredients or layering products with the same active ingredients increases the risk of skin irritation.

The researchers found that among the 25 most viewed videos, 76% contained at least one potential contact allergen, often fragrance.

Professor Tess Macpherson, from the British Association of Dermatologists, who was not involved in the work, said the study was important, confirming anecdotal reports of rising numbers of young people presenting to clinics with skin irritations. “We’ve certainly seen a huge increase in people wanting what they call perfect skin, but we know it’s unattainable and it’s not rewarding – it doesn’t make people happy,” she said.

Macpherson added that she was aware of young people asking for birthday money to spend on expensive skincare products, many of which are now targeted at young girls thanks to their attractive packaging. In addition to the risks identified in the study, Macpherson said skincare videos were contributing to the stigma around conditions such as acne and eczema, as well as fears of ageing, which she said was reinforced by women using Botox and fillers.

“Kids are getting younger and younger and are looking for skincare products when they don’t need them, they’re useless,” she says. “It’s a really disturbing statement about society and how we view what skin should look like.”