Responsible tourism in the tropical paradise of Raja Ampat

Raja Ampat is often referred to as “the last paradise on Earth”, and after experiencing even a small taste of what it has to offer, it’s easy to see why. Ancient forests and lush, verdant landscapes amazed at every turn. Beneath the surface, the marine life was nothing short of breathtaking, while on land, encounters with metre-long crabs, extraordinary marsupials, and unfamiliar reptiles left lasting impressions. It’s impossible to leave Raja Ampat without being filled with a profound appreciation for the natural world — and an overwhelming desire to protect it from the mounting environmental challenges of modern life. This may seem like an insurmountable task to many, but for founder Max Ammer and his team of responsible travel pioneers, it’s a mission they take on with unwavering commitment every single day.

Getting to Raja Ampat isn’t simple — but with careful planning and enough time, it’s far from impossible. International travellers should fly into Jakarta, Indonesia’s capital, before taking a domestic flight to Sorong in Southwest Papua. From there, options include joining a dive boat, taking a local ferry to Waisai on Waigeo Island, or arranging a speedboat transfer to the island or resort of choice. Opting for the latter, we reached Kri Island within a couple of hours of leaving Sorong’s port on a shared transfer to Sorido Bay Resort.

Choosing Sorido Bay Resort on the pristine shores of Kri Island meant experiencing one of the region’s most sought-after eco-luxury resorts — and a trailblazer in sustainable tourism. Our Sentani Bungalow offered direct beach access and was designed using local materials and traditional architectural styles, blending comfort and environmental consciousness. Evenings spent in a hammock, serenaded by the sounds of jungle and sea, were the perfect way to unwind, while mornings began with strong coffee and the prospect of another day in paradise.

Raja Ampat’s underwater world surpassed all expectations. Crystal-clear waters revealed a kaleidoscope of colour and biodiversity. Often referred to as the crown jewel of Indonesia, Raja Ampat offers nature lovers a chance to witness one of the world’s richest marine habitats. Like a “Greatest Hits” of the natural world, every dive or snorkelling trip brought new wonders: vibrant corals, thriving marine life, shimmering shoals of fish, graceful turtles, majestic manta rays at cleaning stations, and the distant sight of dolphins and whales surfacing as we travelled to our next adventure. Each day, returning divers and snorkellers shared stories of their underwater sightings with an enthusiasm that was impossible to resist. The sense of interconnectedness within this marine ecosystem left a deep impression — and a renewed sense of responsibility to protect it.

Even the most enthusiastic diver needs time on land, and life back at Sorido Bay Resort proved just as captivating. Guests can trek to the sister Kri Eco Resort, visit the on-site zebra shark nursery that raises and releases endangered zebra sharks, or book a relaxing spa treatment after a day in the ocean. The surrounding scenery is equally breathtaking, with the nearby Fam Islands offering a dreamscape of turquoise lagoons, towering limestone karsts, empty beaches, mangroves, and yet more marine life.

All meals and soft drinks were included in our stay, and as vegan travellers, we were thrilled to find a thoughtful range of plant-based options. Travelling to remote islands with limited dining choices can often be a concern, but Sorido Bay delivered in abundance. Plant-based proteins like tempeh and tofu featured prominently, alongside flavour-packed vegetable dishes and homemade condiments such as a spicy sambal made from chillies, garlic, tomatoes, and shallots. Standouts included the sticky soy-glazed tempeh and the rich jackfruit in coconut milk, while vegan pancakes with fruit, nuts, and cinnamon ensured a delicious start to the day.

When Max Ammer first explored the region in the 1990s, Raja Ampat looked very different. Founding Kri Eco Resort as the area’s first dive resort, he has since led the charge in responsible and sustainable tourism. Kri Eco Resort offers simple yet comfortable stilted cottages over the water. We stayed in a bright and airy Deluxe Water Cottage, where falling asleep to the rhythm of the ocean and jungle was an unforgettable experience. Living on Kri Island may be the stuff of tropical dreams, but with it comes the responsibility of protecting fragile ecosystems under increasing pressure from tourism. From what we observed — and what we were told — both Sorido Bay and Kri Eco Resort are setting the standard, minimising their environmental footprint and showing what responsible tourism can look like in practice.

Meals at Kri Eco Resort were simpler than those at Sorido Bay, but no less satisfying. Emphasising local flavours and ingredients, the food was fresh, nourishing, and always included vegan options. Tempeh and tofu were staples — something we welcomed wholeheartedly. Staff were proactive in explaining what was suitable for vegan guests and even surprised us with extra dishes prepared especially for the plant-based diners. Mealtimes were not only a chance to refuel but also an opportunity to share stories and connect with fellow travellers.

As the operators of both resorts, Papua Divers supports a wide range of community and environmental initiatives. These include education programmes, conservation efforts, and the Raja Ampat Research and Conservation Centre — a hub for sustainable tourism, research, and community outreach. Guests are encouraged to refill reusable metal water bottles at designated stations, and bathroom amenities are natural, reef-safe, locally sourced, and provided in refillable dispensers. These kinds of practices, in our view, should be industry standard.

Raja Ampat had been on our bucket list for over two decades, and it did not disappoint. But without strict governance and responsible operators, its pristine beauty is at risk. As travellers, we hold the power to influence the future — by researching who we stay with, who we dive with, and how we engage with the destination. Raja Ampat is a marine masala of awe and wonder, and we feel immensely privileged to have experienced even a small and sustainable serving of what it has to offer.