Canadians spend billions on cosmetics each year, but dermatologists say only a fraction of products are needed
Read the label on the average cosmetics product in your local drug store, and you'll come across a variety of promises.
A foundation brand may claim to be able to cover up any and all blemishes, while some skin creams go so far as to suggest they can make you look 10 years younger.
Belief in those promises is likely why Canadians spent almost $9 billion US on cosmetics in 2024, contributing to the global cosmetics industry's roughly $650 billion in revenue.
It's also why Hailey Bieber recently sold her Rhode brand for $1 billion.
Still, most of us know that the average anti-wrinkle cream won't actually turn back the clock, but it's not always clear how much cosmetics actually influence our skin health.
Dermatologists agree that sunscreen, face wash and moisturizer are the three most useful products most people can buy, and suggest that consumers should be skeptical of products claiming to offer results that would usually require clinical treatment to achieve.
How does makeup affect our skin?While makeup is usually the first thing that comes to mind when people think of cosmetics, this category of consumer products actually encompasses everything that people use on their skin from lipsticks to face masks, serums to sunscreens.
Cosmetics like lipstick, foundation and concealer are typically harmless, says dermatologist Dr. Renee Beach.
In the best case scenarios, some of these may contain active ingredients like salicylic acid, which can make skin look shinier and even help manage skin oils that lead to acne production, says Beach.
Normal sunscreens contain ingredients that contribute to the product's sun protecting factor (SPF), but tinted sunscreens, as well as certain foundations and concealers, can also prevent facial discolouration caused by conditions like melasma, Beach told Dr. Brian Goldman, host of The Dose podcast.
However, makeup can be harmful if people wear too much, too often, for too long.
"Or perhaps they're putting makeup on skin that's uncleansed, or acne-prone — that would negatively impact skin health, leading to more acne," said Beach.
Using expired makeup can be risky, too, says Beach, who runs the Dermatelier on Avenue clinic in Toronto. A 2020 study found that expired makeup can contain harmful bacteria, including E. coli.
Beach also recommends that people avoid makeup that contains fragrance.
"Fragrance in most circumstances, while it's fun, isn't necessarily fun for the skin," she said.
"It's probably the number one reason people get a reaction or irritation or even allergic to a leave-on product."
Keep it simpleOf course, anyone who's visited the beauty section at a department store — or has spent any amount of time looking at skin-care routines on social media — knows the full range of cosmetics can be daunting.
Dermatologist Dr. Julia Carroll recommends her patients use three core categories of skin-care products: cleansers, moisturizers and sunscreen.
If needed, individuals can then add specific skin products for conditions like acne or dry or particularly oily skin.
"If you looked at my skin-care routine, it probably has a few more things in it, but it's something that I curated over the years to address the concerns that I have about my skin," said Carroll.
She recommends against complicated 10-step skin-care routines, since those can damage the skin barrier.
"Although you're trying to improve your skin, you may end up with red skin that's irritated and that breaks out more easily," she said.
She suggests people start with fewer products, giving skin time to adjust to any potential reactions, before adding more products to a routine.
"One of the other mistakes people often make is they're just adding multiple things at one time and they try it for a day or two, and then say that didn't work," said Carroll.
Anti-aging creams don't really work — right?Skin creams actually can improve skin longevity if used consistently, says Carroll.
"I can walk into a room and I can pick out who's been using a retinol cream for their lifetime, if we're looking at 50-year-olds, versus someone who hasn't been, just by looking at the quality of their skin," she said.
Though an anti-aging skin cream won't actually reverse the effects of aging, Carroll says it does have preventative properties.
"If you're 30 years old, what you're doing by using a retinoid is you are increasing your collagen production, so you're preventing more than you are reversing the aging process," she said.
Nonetheless, Carroll says she doesn't think tweens and teens need products containing retinoids for anti-aging purposes. "Absolutely not," she said.
A 2025 study published by the American Academy of Pediatrics found that skin care solutions promoted on TikTok "offer little to no benefit for the pediatric populations they are targeting."
"Skin care regimens on TikTok are costly, infrequently include sunscreen, and often involve exposure to ingredients that carry a risk of irritation, allergic contact dermatitis, and sun sensitivity," the study found.
But the risk of using regular moisturizing lotions is relatively low for most people, says Carroll, though people with sensitive or rosacea-prone skin may be more reactive to some active ingredients.
Beach says people need to be realistic about how quickly over-the-counter cosmetics take effect, noting that it can take up to three months to see meaningful improvements.
How does Health Canada fit in?It's worth noting there are rules for regulating the cosmetics industry in Canada.
A Health Canada spokesperson explained in an email that "all cosmetics sold in Canada must be safe to use and must meet the requirements of the Food and Drugs Act, and its Cosmetic Regulations."
"If a health or safety problem is identified after a cosmetic product is on the market, Health Canada investigates and takes appropriate enforcement actions," the spokesperson.
Dr. Sunil Kalia, a dermatologist and associate professor at the University of British Columbia, says Canada's cosmetics rules are "comparable to other country regulations."
He says sunscreens in particular are more strictly regulated in Canada, than in Europe and Asia.
However, a 2024 article published in the International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences found that the European Union has "has some of the strictest cosmetic regulations, requiring pre-market safety assessments and prohibiting certain harmful substances," drawing contrast with Canada and the U.S.
"While Canada has stricter guidelines than the U.S., many products can still be sold without pre-market approval," the study authors wrote.
Brandi Leifso, founder of Evio Beauty, which bills itself as a vegan, cruelty-free cosmetics brand, says sometimes Canadian guidelines don't go far enough.
Leifso says her company goes to great lengths to make sure products don't unintentionally harm customers.
"We send it away to third-party labs and we test on humans," said Leifso. She says all tests are overseen by dermatologists.
The company also ensures its products meet global standards, including those set by the U.S. and the EU.
For her part, Beach cautions that consumers should think about why they want to use certain cosmetics before applying them to skin.
"Buyer be savvy," she said.
cbc.ca
