The sea in front of you
We were on Föhr in the winter. It rained and stormed. We didn't go to the south beach, where the Hotel Upstalsboom is located, even once. We didn't use any of the tips a friend had sent us (Saimons Hin & Weg, right on Wyk's chip shop, has great burgers and the best coffee). Instead, we looked out the floor-to-ceiling windows of our room at the mudflats and tried to explain to our child how the moon, the water, and the tides work. I had my hair cut by a very nice islander at the hotel, read "Morning, Tomorrow, and Tomorrow Again" by Gabrielle Zevin in two days, and watched real TV again: a cooking show with Jamie Oliver, which my child found so boring that we went swimming again, both inside and outside with a view of the sea. Children aren't allowed in the sauna area, which makes sense, but otherwise they are very welcome. This is, of course, great for young families. The "Upstalsboom" opened in 2018, so everything is fairly new, with lots of honey-colored wood and just the right amount of seaside decor. With 167 rooms, it's also the only large hotel on Föhr, which otherwise tends to be an island for regulars and people who find neighboring Sylt too posh or too expensive. It's also quick to get there from Hamburg, a two-and-a-half-hour drive to the ferry dock, and once you're on the ship—an old North Sea saying—your vacation has already begun.
Upstalsboom Wyk auf Föhr Gmelinstraße 11, 25938 Wyk auf Föhr Tel. 04681/99 20-0 Double room from 200 euros/night including breakfast
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